- everything is optimally calibrated from factory for durability and efficient combustion
- whatever you change screws everything out – otherwise, manufacturers would market more performance already, no?
- max. power on commercial 2.0 TDi is around 180HP with single-stage turbocharging – do you really think you can get 300HP of real performance on TDi as some claim?
- your injectors are too small if you must tinker with injection timing
- if you change AFR, you decrease fuel economy – one wonders about wild claims of improved fuel economy created by chiptuners
- everything is designed for 80-90% of max. mechanical limits
- there is only about +5% increase in real torque/power – unless, you have some car that shares same engine with same HW but different power output
- the only way to get more performance is de-calibrate everything and become ECO terrorist
- beware of fancy dyno graphs – they are good only for slow weekends masturbation
Let’s use our brains for a while
From all ECUs I have seen so far, manufacturers commonly use optimal AFR of around 19:1 (Lambda 1.31) with 17.4:1 (Lambda 1.2) for quick turbo spooling. In other words, you start with low AFR at low revs because heat = power = heat. Once, your turbine is spinning and compressor supplies compressed air (boost) you need optimal combustion for max. torque/power.
Duners live for 30 seconds power – I wonder if it is related to normal men having sex and giving girls 30 second of hell as they love to brag out (except the sex duration of course). As explained in dyno illusion article, you kill your engine/turbo if you push your car flat out for more than 30 seconds outside the dyno session.
The Miracle of Chiptuning
You can learn about optimal ECU re-calibration in the legendary HR article HOW TO NOT Destroy your car. We also know how to squeeze maximum air from your turbo charger. Lets check out what commercial and amateur chiptuners do.
How chiptuners achieve 170+ kW from factory 125kW engine? Dreamy +36% increase in torque/power at 4200rpm. Common chiptuners’ knowledge is “max. boost increase +6%”. It is miracle of chiptuning – a guy in garage with dyno can do better than manufacturers with the best equipment you can buy.
Factory duration maps run to 70mg IQ (lets dream little bit and assume it is 80% of maximal injector capacity) and chiptuners increase it by +14%. You are now at 94% of injector capacity – one wonders how long those injectors last till failure.
If you are usual car user, it doesn’t bother you much but never drive flat out/full load for more than 30 minutes. You will most likely end up as me with broken turbo and clutch.
One day, I wish I could try standard HR test in mountains – I wonder how long such a hardcore remap would last. If you hit, in 30 seconds dyno session, 920°C EGT with barely warmed up engine – in real life, it means in less than 30 seconds your ECU is limiting torque/power and you get engine oil temperatures 120+ °C.
Hate to say I told you so
I always wonder whether people, who land on our website, even read what we write because they ask over and over again same stupid questions.
If you are real/spirited or hardcore driver BEWARE OF COMMERCIAL CHIPTUNING !!! You end up with broken car and no fun.
When I finally understood “all” and started to calibrate ECU by myself. My fuel economy is same as factory original but with more torque where it matters most. You cannot have what is not here, do you understand??? I am sure not because you will ask me later if I can calibrate your 140PS engine to 200PS with factory HW.